Flowering Tsavo


May 4th, 2010 by Dipesh

The best thing about Camp Tsavo is that we often have all sorts of wonderful people popping in once in a while. The main reason for this is that we are really privileged to be based in such a diverse ecosystem. You may remember the guest post we blogged from Munir Virani, the raptor specialist. A couple of weeks ago, we had another wonderful character stay with us for a few nights only this time it was the bugs and not the birds that brought him to Camp Tsavo. Dino Martins is a PHD student at Harvard University and just loves his bugs! He blogs regularly on Dudu (the swahili word for insect) Diaries and recently posted about his trip to Camp Tsavo and has kindly allowed us to repost it here. Enjoy!

Hello – have just been visiting Tsavo. We were based at Camp Tsavo (which used to be called the Taita Discovery Centre). It is an amazing location – a former cattle ranch nestled between Tsavo East and Mt Kasigau. It is a fantastic place to be based for anyone wanting to explore a more remote corner of the Tsavo ecosystem – and the added bonus is the cloud forest on Mt Kasigau, which is one of the most remote and beautiful forested massifs of Kenya.

Just after we arrived, we had an interesting visitor come to greet us at the dinner table! She was very friendly…

The entire place was a green as I have ever seen it. A most interesting phenomenon was the carpets of Ipomoea (morning glory flowers) that literally covered everything – bushes, trees and the ground. From a distance in some places it looked like it had snowed. Below are some photos taken by my friend, Wenfei Tong, of the flowers.

Of course with the rains there were lots and lots of bugs about. We found this stately old gentleman ambling across the road – he is an Armoured Ground Cricket – insects that only appear for a few weeks after it rains.

There were lots of butterflies around too. This flock of Pea Blues were busy sipping juices from some fresh lion dung!

There were a lot of Emperor Butterflies about too – here a tiny blue butterfly is using one as a perch!

Other butterflies around included this orange and black ‘Joker’, and lots of whites and yellows – who were all busy mud-puddling.

All over the world, especially in the tropics, butterflies gather daily to ‘mud-puddle’ as it is called, at the edges of savannah and forest pools, rivers, streams or even at damp patches on roads where a passing cow or buffalo has urinated.

They are thirsty and come to quench their thirst in the tropical midday heat. But their real thirst is not just for water or moisture. What they are really after are salts and other nutrients that seep from the earth. As the water evaporates and moves through the sand, pebbles, clay or mud, it carries with it a whole range of dissolved salts and suspended nutrients – minerals and the like from the soil.


Salt – yes, the plain old sodium chloride (NaCl) we so love to sprinkle on our fish and chips, and add excessively to food of every kind, is something of a rare commodity in nature. Plant material, especially in areas of high rainfall is relatively low in these essential salts, mainly sodium. Herbivores, therefore, need to seek out salts from other sources. In order to obtain enough of this essential nutrient they resort to range of strategies.

The need for salt applies equally to all leaf-eating creatures, both large and small. Butterflies do most of their feeding and growing on leaves as caterpillars. The same leaves that browsing mammals eat and then crave salt. The adult butterflies gather at puddles and streamsides, and at less savoury locations too, to sip the salts dissolved and slightly concentrated in water as it evaporates from the surface of the soil.

It seems pretty straightforward – gather and mud-puddle and get your dose of salt. But with insects nothing is ever so simple. Even something as ordinary as salt has become a cunning card when played by the hand of evolution.

Looking really, really carefully at the butterflies that come and gather to mud-puddle and sip salts, one notices several interesting patterns. Firstly, only males come to mud-puddle. Males of many different species gather and shuffle, jostling for space on the best spots. Since females rarely if ever gather at damp patches – how then do they obtain their much-needed salts?

The answer, of course, is from the males. Mud-puddling out in the open is risky business. Even in a crowd you’re still exposed to dangers from above and below – ravenous ants, insectivorous birds and jumping spiders to name just a few. But male butterflies, despite all the risks, still gather at damp patches in large numbers.

The reason behind this is that without the extra salts and nutrients, they stand little chance of mating and passing on their genes. Natural selection works through an interplay of invisible pressures and forces and pure chance that leads to one behaviour, trait or gene being slightly favoured over others in the endless gamble of life.

When most moths and butterflies mate, the male passes the female a special package known as a spermatophore. This sac, a nuptial gift, contains in addition to his sperm, a whole range of precious substances. The contents of the spermatophore depend on the species of butterfly involved and how much or how little time the male spent mud-puddling or feeding from dung and other such delicious, nutrient-rich substances.

Dino Martins

Click HERE to read the original post

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The raptors of Rukinga


February 17th, 2010 by Dipesh

A few days ago, we had some rather interesting visitors staying with us at Camp Tsavo. Dr. Munir Virani, Africa Programme Director for the Peregrine Fund is one of a handful of raptor specialists in East Africa and was in the neighborhood surveying birds of prey.  We are are now discussing some long term research on birds of prey based out of Camp Tsavo. Dr. Munir sent in a short account of his trip:

Having spent a productive full two days at Tsavo surveying birds of prey, we were quite excited to explore Rukinga Wildlife Sanctuary, an 80,000 acre private piece of land just south of the Taita Hills, a world renowned biodiversity hotspot. I was particularly ecstatic because of the possibility of seeing another Taita Falcon (I saw my first ever Taita Falcon in the wild in Tsavo West a couple of days ago). For those unaware of what exactly a Taita Falcon is, it is the avian equivalent of a wild Amur Leopard. The rare Taita Falcon is a winsome, yet powerful little falcon with huge feet, and capable of attaining speeds of up to 160 miles per hour at full stoop, leaving its prey no chance of survival. The Taita Hills was where the first specimen was discovered. My colleagues on this survey – Teeku Patel and Karim Kara are avid raptorphiles and we were invited by Dipesh Pabari (Africa Programme Manager for Camps International) on the last day of our survey to Camp Tsavo to document the ranch’s raptors and look at the possibility of assisting with specialized raptor training courses.

It was extremely hot and we were sun baked (almost roasted) as we observed raptors from the rooftop of Teeku’s vintage Land Rover. Arriving at Camp Tsavo at 4.00 pm, we were warmly greeted by friendly staff and shown to our rooms. Our minds however were set on the cliffs atop Marungu Hill where we had spotted quite a lot of whitewash on our way to camp. We were introduced to Ken, the camp’s guide who meticulously explained to us about the ranch and Camp Tsavo what its aims and objectives were.

Our minds however were set at exploring the cliffs and it didn’t take long to convince Ken to drive out to the base of Marungu Hill to look for raptors. So off we went through a narrow winding path, stopping occasionally to photograph an elegant Eastern Chanting Goshawk and a Brown Snake Eagle. As we got to the bottom of the cliff, we hurriedly leapt out of the Land Rover to find fresh leopard scat and pug marks. The silence was broken by the sounds of binoculars whooshing, aimed towards the sky atop the cliff as two silhouetted predatory birds effortlessly soared the cliff ridge. “Verreaux’s”, I yelled, expecting confirmation from my colleagues. The Verreaux’s Eagle is the African equivalent of the Golden Eagle, and the second largest eagle in Africa (after the Martial). Very few outdoor experiences come close to watching one of Africa’s majestic eagles in display over a pastel orange sunset sky. We watched the eagles being dive-bombed by a falcon (too far to get a positive identification on) and could only speculate that it may have had chicks. The landscape was lush green and comprised Commiphora and Acacia shrubs, all in resplendent bloom. We headed back to camp and were treated to a sumptuous dinner and some excellent company with the camp’s ecotrainers. The lights went off promptly at ten and as I lay on my bed, my mind was abuzz with all the possible opportunities to conduct ground breaking raptor research in this Biodiversity Hotspot area. I shall certainly return.

Munir Virani
Africa Programs Director
The Peregrine Fund

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Mr. and Mrs. Ken-net


August 13th, 2009 by Dipesh

Stand aside Mr. and Mrs. Smith….

Mr. and Mrs. Kennet are in da house…

P1030390

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In the footsteps of explorers…


May 4th, 2009 by Dipesh

Great feature article on Camp Tsavo in Kenya’s largest newspaper, the Daily Nation, written by seasoned travel writer, Rupi Mangat. The article recounts the fascinating history of Rukinga Ranch and retells some of the stories of the first European travellers in the area. Definitly worth a read. Click on the image below to read the full article…

In the footsteps of explorers

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Running for Camps


April 29th, 2009 by Stuart

Well I guess it’s my own fault!

When I asked Rachel Gallagher to take on the role as Chair of our affiliated charity, the Camps International Trust I should have anticipated the ‘order’ to sign up for the BUPA 10k run in London on 25th May. She clearly has absolutely no concern for the fact that I am supremely unfit and fast approaching forty so sympathies not forthcoming, I am now on the campaign trail and training like Rocky Balboa.

Complaining aside, I am super fired up to be running for a cause I feel passionately about. Let me outline the exact cause that proceeds from my sweat and tears will go to here and I hope you will take a couple of minutes to dip into your pocket and sponsor me. You can either donate via my just giving page here or complete the attached sponsor form. Please note that my just giving page will expire on the day of the run.

Our aim is to raise money to create a feeding programme for Sasenyi Primary school in the Rukinga Sanctuary on the outskirts of Tsavo National Park, Kenya. Since the post election troubles in Kenya there has been an acute shortage of maize. Currently the situation is very bleak for children at the school. They have one small meal at night in their homes. The next morning they have a cup of water before walking to school. For some of them this can be up to 2 hours. At school they have nothing all day, not even water, before returning home again in the evening. Our programme would aim to feed the 600 pupils at the primary school, aged roughly from 7 – 15, and 200 under 7’s from the pre primary school. Camps International Trust has a team of 15 runners. The minimum sponsorship we are looking for is £350. This would feed all 800 children for half of the school year. £700 from every runner would provide a meal for every child every day they attend school for a whole year.

Kids from Sasenyi School

Kids from Sasenyi School

Each kilometre we run will add another week to our feeding programme and I hope you will find the time and inspiration to make a donation.

Many thanks,

Stuart Rees Jones
MD Camps

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Seeing Tsavo…the responsible way…


April 28th, 2009 by Dipesh

Just got back from Camp Tsavo buzzing with excitement to be back out in the field and to be a part of the Camp Kenya team. Although I came on board officially as the Africa Projects Manager less than a week ago, none of this is really new to me as I have watched the Camp Projects grow over the past few years. It’s a great feeling to come on board and feel very much at home.

Won’t bother you all with the details but its my first personal blog post on the Camp Kenya site and it actually all started in Tsavo a couple of years ago when I helped Camp Kenya to initiate various projects with the communities surrounding one of Kenya’s greatest natural heritage wonders: Tsavo National Park renowned for its volcanic landscape, its healthy population of elephants and its once upon a time man- eating lions (thankfully, all that is left of the latter is a great story for a Hollywood blockbuster).

Yes, it’s all beatiful and exotic when you are touring around the park clicking away at the giraffe and forgetful warthogs or elephants cooling off in mud baths but there is a much deeper story that not many travellers get to really understand. The reality of that complex web of people and wildlife and the environment they share is something that reponsible travel companies and the reponsible traveller is increasingly playing a much more critical role. The unfortunate reality is that most communities surrounding national parks live in abject poverty and understandably have a strong aversion to wildlife. Put yourself in their shoes for a minute and imagine your crops being destroyed year in and year out by marauding elephants…amazing creatures to watch from a distance and no question that they deserve to have a conflict free existence but the same applies to the communities who are surrounded by the national parks…they also deserve to make a decent living and get on with their lives…

I have been involved with various community and wildlife projects for several years and have increasingly begun to realise that one of the main solutions to human-wildlife conflict can come from responsible and ethical business models. I believe that responsible tourism is one such model that can benefit every player. And people like yourselves who choose to travel and learn and be a part of the solution are critical to that much bigger and complex web of global responsibility for the protection of global heritage.

Building traditional huts

So two years ago when we set up various community based projects around Tsavo, I really hoped that they would continue to grow and expand over time and it is great to come back and rejoin something that is far bigger than I ever imagined. Camp Tsavo based on Rukinga Ranch and managed by Camp Kenya is a life time committment with obvious benefits to both the people and the wildlife and its great to be on board!

You will be hearing lots from me as not only do I love to get my hands dirty in the red soils of Tsavo, I also love to blog about it!

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